Chiang Mai Old City: Week 7 / Day 48 / Feb 27
Chiang Mai, Thailand: I will be staying local and exploring within the confines of the old city today. However, there is more than enough to keep someone occupied within this small area. Just stepping out of my hotel in the morning, within the first 500 ft I came across arches, statues, ornamental gardens, and street art.
To say that Chiang Mai has some temples is similar to saying that New York City has some tall buildings or Boston has some a**hole drivers. In other words, it is an understatement and they are everywhere.
The first stopping point for the day was Wat Chedi Luang. This temple complex was started in the 14th century. The first place within it that I visited was the Chiang Mai City Pillar.
Enclosed within a small building, it may only be visited by men. I’ll let them explain why. I don’t make the rules, I just pass them along.
In a nearby Wihan (shrine hall containing a Buddha image) there were several Buddha statues.
Looking at some of the statues more closely, I again noticed the prominent gold leaf.
This comes from visitors who have chosen to make their offering in the form of small pieces of gold leaf that can be purchased at the entrance to the shrine. The gold leaf is then rubbed onto the statue to gild a portion of it. This then gives rise to an expression: “Putting gold on the back of the Buddha.” This means to do good not in order to be noticed, but because it is the right thing to do.
The main sight in this area is the Chedi Luang itself.
Once at a height of 82 m, this was the tallest structure in all of northern Thailand. The Emerald Buddha was installed here in 1468. However, following an earthquake in 1545 that severely damaged the chedi, the Emerald Buddha was moved elsewhere.
Surrounding the chedi were numerous other statues and small shrines.
There were also many flowering plants and the interestingly named Cannonball Tree.
On the way out of the complex, I passed by the “Chat with a Monk” area, where the curious can ask monks about Buddhism, Thailand, or anything else of interest.
From here it was only a short walk to Wat Phra Singh. Begun in 1345, this temple complex has numerous shrines and an enormous chedi. Entering the first Wihan, one sees the usual Buddha statues and offerings.
However, this building also has a series of disturbingly lifelike wax statues of monks.
There was also a real one present should a visitor be so inclined to speak with him.
Leaving this building, one gets a first glimpse of the large, golden chedi that dominates the back of the complex.
Several more Wihan are available to be visited at this end of the site, each having the typical figures standing guard at the steps, elaborate murals on the interior, and numerous Buddha statues within.
The back end of the complex was very peaceful with a number of mediation areas surrounding the massive, golden chedi.
Finishing up at the complex, I headed back to my hotel. Along the way, I again encountered some rodent friends in amongst the garbage bags on the streets.
I tried to get some better shots of them as they scurried from drain pipe, to rock pile, to garbage bags, but they were fast, and this was the best I could do.
Earlier in the day I had purchased tickets for Muay Thai fighting at the Chiang Mai Boxing Stadium for the evening. I had read online that the fights at some gyms appeared to be play acting and fixed . That was not the case here – or they were REALLY good at it.
Each bout began with ritual bows towards the corners and other areas.
Members of the audience were also invited up to present the fighters with garlands of flowers before the action started.
I had a seat right next to the ring and had a good view of all of the action.
Overall, it was a very entertaining evening and well worth the time and money.
