Wat Phra Kaew, the Grand Palace, and Wat Arun: Week 7 / Day 46 / Feb 25
Bangkok, Thailand: Today’s journey begins with a visit to Wat Phra Kaew, also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Located directly next to the Grand Palace, it makes visiting both of these locations very easy. Entering the complex was quite easy after the little bit of security theater so common throughout my trip.
I have walked through more beeping metal detectors that no one cared about in the last two months than the rest of my life combined.
Entering the complex I walked through a gate and came upon the statue of the hermit.
This statue is believed to be able to heal the sick and attracts pilgrims offering fruit, flowers, and candles. Immediately behind me while looking at the hermit statue were two large statues of Yaksha guarding the entrance gate.
Encircling the entire compound is a wall about 2 km long. Covered in murals (178 in total) on the interior, they tell the story of the Ramakian, the Thai national epic.
I think my favorite mural is the last one shown in which Lord Hanuman has laid himself down across the water to create a bridge allowing the Vanara army of monkey warriors to cross.
Within this area there are also numerous prang and chedi visible in seemingly all directions.
However, as the name would imply, the main attraction is the statue of the Emerald Buddha. Housed within a large temple that dominates the area, the building is highly detailed on the exterior.
Although photos are not allowed within the temple, it is possible to see the statue through the doorway. The exact origin of the Emerald Buddha is unclear. It would appear to have been made in the 14th century, but some legends place its origins even earlier.
It is 26 inches tall and is perched very high up atop a tall altar. The statue is clad in one of three garments depending upon the season, with the King of Thailand charged with changing these garments during the year.
Adjacent to the main temple building are a series of other buildings including a library and mausoleum for the royal family.
Standing just outside many of these buildings are Kinnari (a female human / bird hybrid).
Many buildings are also guarded by smaller statues.
And, around all of this, are the numerous prang being held aloft by demon warriors.
Passing by a small offering space, I left the grounds of the temple and entered the grounds of the Grand Palace.
Although still used for official events, the Grand Palace is no longer the home of the King of Thailand.
Exiting the Grand Palace one passes through a small garden area.
After a brief stop for lunch, I decided to use the proximity to the river to cross quickly via ferry and visit Wat Arun (Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan) or Temple of the Dawn.
This temple used to house the Emerald Buddha before it was moved to its current home. It also used to be part of the royal palace complex before that moved across the river as well.
The dominant feature of this area is the central prang encrusted in porcelain.
Surrounding it are other smaller prang all held aloft by various figures.
Leaving the Wat Arun I headed back out on the ferry towards the hotel. I decided to get off a couple of stops early and stop in at the enormous (5th largest in the world) and air conditioned IconSiam shopping mall.
A quick look around indicated that this was not the Burlington Mall from back home.
The view from the top floor was impressive and the food court at the bottom even more so.
After a brief rest at the hotel I headed out for China Town to get dinner. In heading across the river I passed by an area where multiple people were working out, playing badminton, practicing Muay Thai, or just doing things I thought were crazy in this heat and humidity.
Crossing over the river I then walked the mile or so up to China Town.
Unfortunately, China Town was deserted compared to the other evening (Monday vs. Saturday night I guess). I did, however, have an excellent meal. Displayed within the restaurant were numerous bird’s nests for making bird’s nest soup or a cold bird’s nest based dessert. The nests can be quite expensive (up to $1,000 for less than one pound).
For those not familiar with it, the bird’s nests are basically the dried saliva of various species of swiftlets. Before judging too quickly, just remember that honey is dried bee’s vomit.
After dinner I took a taxi back to my hotel and passed this guy before finishing up for the night.
Dave, your single days are filled with more amazing sights, sounds, smells, tastes, than those of us living a simpler, tamer life experience in a year. I am so grateful you are doing this, and so want to be there joining you! The image of the 3 giant porcelain elephants upholding the jade green prang/figure captured my imagination. As did, of course, the kitty kitty. And you, my friend, are looking happy and healthy and fit and smiley. I am so happy to see it!
Keep leading the way!
My parents are on a cruise on the Mekong River right now, so wave hello to them while you are there.
Safe travels, my friend. Keep showing us all how to do it up right.
Jen
Thanks so much Jen! Very cool for your parents too!