New Delhi, India: First up on today’s itinerary is a visit to the Swaminarayan Akshardham complex. The complex is an enormous temple and grounds located on the other side of the river form where I am staying. Fortunately, there is Uber and rides are extremely cheap here (about $2.00 for a 45 minute trip). However, the traffic is ridiculous, slow, and constant. I thought Boston traffic was bad, but this is a different world entirely.

Getting into the Uber I was greeted by a friendly and cheerful driver. We drove along the first 15 minutes or so chatting about India and him asking me my thoughts on the country and the food. Suddenly, he announced that he was hungry and pulled to the side of the road. He quickly dashed out of the car, leaving me at the curb with the motor running. A few minutes later he returned with two foil bowls. Each bowl contained two deep fried dough pockets with spices inside and they were swimming in a bean based broth that was quite spicy. Additionally, he also had a plastic bag of extra soup.

He handed me one of the bowls and we sat at the side of the road eating our soup and pasties continuing the conversation from earlier. Despite several attempts to give him money for the food he refused and would not let me broach the topic again. After finishing our meal we continued our trip. As I mentioned earlier, the traffic is outrageous. In a typical 3-lane road, a collection of vehicles (cars, busses, trucks, scooters, tuk-tuks, motorcycles, and bicycles) will be driving 6-wide. Adding to the situation is that every time a vehicle wants to squeeze into a lane, pass another vehicle, or ease through the crowd, the driver will either toot or blare the horn. Since everyone is doing pretty much all of these things at all times, the horns are constant.

After a bit more driving this way, the Uber driver announced that the food earlier had the opposite of the intended effect. He was now hungrier than he was before. Pulling off on the side of the bridge that crosses the Yamuna river, he then hopped out to get food from the back of the car. His wife had made roti and vegetable curry for him. So, we again sat at the side of the road dipping our roti into the curry and chatting about things.

Sadly, we eventually made it to the temple complex and I had to go. I do not normally take pictures of my Uber drivers, but Aakash was not a normal Uber driver.

Heading into the temple complex I quickly discovered that this was not to be a photographic day. Among other things, the temple forbids bringing in cameras or cell phones and they must be checked at the gate. Interestingly, they also ban magic markers, paper, and magnets. I am not sure what I could build with those, but it must be something dangerous.

The temple complex was enormous and I encourage the curious to go online and check out pictures of it: Swaminarayan Akshardham. Who took these pictures or smuggled in the camera? No idea. As you can see from the pictures linked the temple complex is enormous and rather impressive in its design. It celebrates the life and teachings of Bhagwan Swaminarayan (1781 – 1830), a spiritual leader who lead a revival of key Hindu practices.

Although the scale and design of the complex is rather breathtaking, it is also a bit sterile. I think mainly because it is so new (completed in 2005), but also because it has a water / light show and animatronic displays, it feels a little too much like a Disney version of a Hindu temple, rather than the real thing. I think this is also due to how perfect everything is. I am used to religious temples and grand structures being ruins or at least showing a lot of wear and tear over the years. This complex shows none of that and basically still has that new temple smell. On the other hand, at the food court I was able to get a two scoop ice cream cone for $1.25. So, there really is not much to complain about.

Having finished my visit to the temple complex I headed down to the main market areas of Old Delhi. The market complexes in Delhi make everything else I have seen on this trip seem piddling in comparison. In fact, there is really no one area that can be identified as “the” market area. Instead, there are shops and markets everywhere. The variety of shops and of goods for sale is overwhelming. Also, shops of a single type tend to cluster together. On one stretch of road I saw about 20 shops in a row that were all selling marble or other stone products.

Getting out of the car I began walking towards the Chandni Chowk market area.

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If you have ever wondered where old motorcycles go when they die, wonder no more. I think I have found the spot. On the street and sidewalks were men pulling apart motorcycles for parts that were then put on display for sale.

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Rounding a street corner in this area I then ended up in the land of stationary, office supplies, and invitations. For over a hundred yards, and down multiple side alleys, were shops selling all sorts of paper goods. Out near the main road men were unloading the bulk material to be carried to the shops, and, in the shops, industrial cutters were breaking the bulk product down into saleable units.

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Within this maze of businesses were the usual collection of dogs (I think more plentiful than even the cats in Marrakech), street service providers, and food vendors.

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Continuing further into the market area, I walked down roads that were too small for cars and alleys that I think were too small for people. Crammed within all of these were additional business (I happened to walk into trophy land) and wires everywhere supplying these businesses.

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The specialization within some of the shops is pretty incredible. As far as I could tell, the last shop shown sells nothing but high gauge steel wire. And that is about it. But, if you need high gauge steel wire, you know where to go.

Making my way back out of this market area, I happened upon what I first thought was a metro station. Turns out it was the Jama Masjid – a 17th century Mughal mosque.

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Perhaps I am starting to get a little churched / templed / mosqued out, but I came away not amazed or in awe, but instead a little underwhelmed by this structure.

Heading towards where I would meet a car for a ride back to the apartment, I wandered through one more market area.

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After seeing all of the goods on sale at the various markets and shops, I have come to the conclusion that if you cannot find what you are looking for in one of the markets in Delhi, it does not exist.

Uncategorized India markets mosque New Delhi